In 2003, my buddy, John, and I began planning our "every fourth year" holiday (so called because we schedule our trips to coincide with the rugby World Cup, which is held every fourth year). We visited Scotland in late 1999, and the time was approaching for us to head off again, in search of interesting hikes, a new culture, and rugby matches on local pub televisions. (Please join me in thanking to John's wife, Karen, for being so supportive of our excursions.)

It was easy to select France as our destination this time around. The only difficult part was deciding which towns and areas to visit. After intensive research, we decided on a circular route from Paris to the Burgundy Region, the Alps, the Massif Central, the Loire Valley, and back to Paris. We would have liked to see other areas, too (notably, Brittany, Provence and the Pyrenees), but we had only two weeks and didn't want to rush. Better to experience a few places well than a lot of places superficially. Besides, my soon-to-be wife, Susanne, was flying from Stockholm to meet me in Paris after John returned to the US. What a date! I didn't want to be tired from too much traveling.

With all the arrangements set, and with maps, hiking boots and a rudimentary knowledge of French packed away (we knew how to order wine and cheese!), we set off. The next three weeks were an exciting combination of foods, history, scenery and adventure. Among other things, we learned the stereotype of rude French people is completely false. Everyone we met was at least polite, and most people, especially in Paris, were actually quite welcoming and friendly. I have a theory: if you show a little respect and have a sense of humor, most locals will treat you well, even if you mangle their language. Works for me, anyway.